Cotton, viscose or lyocell? A buyer’s fabric guide

Buyer education only. Examples and ranges are illustrative. Confirm specifications, evidence and destination requirements for each order.

1. Three fibre families

Almost every option falls into one of three groups. Natural cellulosic means cotton in its different grades. Man-made cellulosic means fibres regenerated from wood or bamboo pulp: viscose, modal and lyocell. Synthetic means polyester and its blends with cotton or elastane. Each family trades softness, breathability, durability and cost differently, and none is best for every product.

2. Cotton: staple length is the main variable

Cotton quality is driven largely by staple length, the length of the individual fibre. Longer fibres spin into finer, smoother and stronger yarn with less surface fuzz and less pilling. Shorter fibres need more twist and give a rougher, more matte fabric.

• Standard cotton. Medium staple, the base of most everyday basics. Combed yarn removes the shortest fibres and is smoother and stronger than carded yarn, so specify combed for anything customer-facing.
• Pima. A long-staple cotton. For Pima claims, request traceable origin and fibre documentation, and match the material to the written specification.
• Egyptian cotton. An extra-long-staple cotton with a strong luxury association. The name is used loosely in the market, so ask for origin documentation.
• Suvin. A named cotton variety associated with India. Confirm exact fibre identity, origin, availability and performance data for the offered material.
• Sea Island. A specialist long-staple category. Confirm the claimed origin, fibre description and supporting supplier documents for the offered material.

3. Viscose, bamboo, modal and lyocell

• Viscose (rayon). Regenerated cellulose. Very soft and fluid with good drape, but weaker when wet and more prone to shrinkage than cotton.
• Bamboo. Bamboo-derived textiles may be made using different processes. Ask the supplier how the fibre was produced, obtain composition evidence, and confirm the required fibre description with the importer for the destination market before labelling.
• Modal. A regenerated-cellulose fibre sold in different grades. Compare the offered material against documented composition and buyer-required performance tests.
• Lyocell. A regenerated-cellulose fibre. Production-process and environmental claims vary by supplier and should be supported by evidence for the specific material. For named fibre grades or claims, request traceable supplier documentation and verify the material against the buyer’s written specification.

4. Polyester and blends

Polyester is strong, dries quickly, resists creasing and holds its shape, but it absorbs little moisture and feels warmer than cellulosic fibres. Cotton-polyester blends lower the cost, cut shrinkage and improve shape retention, at the expense of breathability. A small share of elastane, commonly two to five percent, adds stretch and recovery to knit fabrics.